Antarctic travelogue

Penola strait to Pleneau island

Day 5

• Position: Argentinian islands
• Hour: 7:00pm
• Latitude: 65°12’S
• Longitude: 64°10’W
• Distance: 744Nm
• Air temperature: 1°C
• Water temperature: 1°C

Awoke at 6.20am by the boat weighing anchor, I got out on the lower bridge, at the front of the boat like Léonardo di Caprio in Titanic so as to witness the entry in Lemaire channel where professor Multanovskiy was sailing but in the opposite direction as yesterday. However the meteorological conditions are totally different. This morning I finally see the Antarctic weather I was fearing: grey low sky, 35 knots wind, big snow flakes.

After an 1h30 navigation and a few legitimate hesitations of our "kayak leader" we join the other passengers about to board the zodiacs. But unlike them and despite the raging elements we'll go for a kayak cruise. I'm the first one to board my kayak and I understand right away I'll have to struggle while waiting for the others to board. I have enough kayaking experience, notably thanks to my Arctic journey in Spitsbergen, to place me face to the wind and balance the drift. But the strong wind makes it difficult for my companions to board their kayaks. So to spare me getting too tired, Chad proposes me to find a relative shelter in a nearby cove, about 50 meters from the zodiac where everyone's waiting. I have to paddle strongly to counter to the drifting wind and waves but finally reach the tiny cove in the middle of which stands an iceberg. But as my kayak keeps on drifting towards the iceberg I decide to purposely beach my kayak on the shore rocks so as not to struggle the elements, yet remaining sitted in the kayak.

From there I have no visibility on the zodiac. I guess Chad must not be serene to lose sight of me but I feel more secure being beached than too close to the iceberg.

Until I noticed something move some 5 meters from me at my twelve o'clock. It was a 3 meters leopard seal who was peacefully resting on the rocks before I disturbed him. Perfectly camouflaged by its rocks-like colours I didn't pay attention to this fierce carnivore before I beached the kayak. And there the seal starts to twist his body opening his mouth and growling at me. I figured out I had to move... and quickly!

Perfectly camouflaged by its rocks-like colours I didn't pay attention to this fierce carnivore before I beached the kayak.

A bit scared, I must say, I start to paddle backwards... on the rocks. In the confusion I forgot the kayak was beached and two third of it was on the rocks. I had to use my paddle to push the rocks so as to free the kayak while the leopard seal was gaining speed and closing in. Once my kayak on the water, I made a 180° turn and paddled as fast as I could to get out of the cove. Back to the zodiac I realised my companions had stayed on board, Chad was about to call me back: because of the strong drifting wind the kayaking expedition was canceled.

I desembarked the kayak to board the zodiac telling my short but incredible adventure to my kayak companions! What a thrill...

[Continuation] Neumayer channel Danco island