Antarctic travelogue

Argentine island and Ukrainian scientific base

Day 4 (continuation)

• Position: Lemaire channel
• Hour: 7:00pm
• Latitude: 64°54’S
• Longitude: 64°20’W
• Distance: 639Nm
• Air temperature: 2°C
• Water temperature: 2°C

After putting my waterproff clothing I stepped into the zodiac bound for Petermann island. In order to minimize our impact on nature and wildlife we were told to walk on the same path so as not lo leave footprints everywhere.

We spent time watching Adelie and Gentoo penguins very busy taking care of their new-born chicks which remain very tempting for the predators like the skuas. Penguins are not afraid of men, they seem indifferent. It is obviously important not to disturb them in their routine but being discret it is easy to observe penguins. Yet, their favorite area remains the ocean where they feed and in which they are so agile. Nevertheless despite their funny way of walking penguins are able to move pretty fast either on snow, rocks or mud.

Our vessel now enters the narrow but gorgeous Lemaire channel overhung by high summits covered in snow and glaciers. 15 prior to our trip, the ice was so thick that the icebreaker struggled to sail. Today here and there mini icebergs float, sometimes forming icefields but nothing serious for Professor Multanovskiy. I go down to the lower bridge to get closer to the sea and hear the noise of the ice banging against the hull.

We stayed approximatively two hours on Petermann island, watching wildlife and enjoying the enchanting sceneries!
Back on board the icebreaker we had lunch while cruising to Argentine islands.

Upon arrival most of the passengers got into the zodiacs bound for the ukrainian scientific base Verdnasky while people from my team (we are 9) got into the kayaks.

Actually the first step is to wear the kayak gear: gore-tex suit, neoprene muff and so on. Then all kayaks are roped to a zodiac in which we hop in. The zodiac cruise away from the ship so we can safely one by one get into our kayak. The operation is tricky as we have to sit on the edge of the zodiac and slide in the kayak which is not that stable. But eh, I can tell you right now, noone fell in the freezing antarctic ocean!

As soon as we start paddling, a curious leopard seal swam close to the kayaks. Fierce predator, leopard seals are impressive: from 2,50m to 3,50m long they feed mainly on penguins they catch and tear appart by violently shaking them. It is said they don't attack humans... so far :-) I really enjoy paddling among the numerous icebergs paying attention not to get to close as the danger is real. The visible part of an iceberg only represents one third of the total mass. The more the iceberg melt the more the balance changes until it flips over. And when it happens you'd better not be too close... especially while cruising frail kayaks! After a 1h30 paddling cruise we reach the scientific base for a quick visit and a glass of vodka.

After diner, we all board the zodiacs for a long beautiful cruise along argentine island shores. In spite of the snow that starts falling I really enjoyed this evening cruise (although the night doesn't fall during summer) where we observed resting leopard seals, skuas and artic sterns.

[Continuation] Pleneau island and Penola strait